Hermès, a name synonymous with luxury and impeccable craftsmanship in leather goods, scarves, and ready-to-wear, has also quietly cultivated a respected presence in the world of haute horlogerie. But unlike some luxury brands that simply slap their name on existing movements, Hermès has taken a deliberate, meticulous approach, building its watchmaking capabilities from the ground up, a process that took years of strategic acquisitions and internal development. So, when did Hermès truly begin making watches? The answer isn't a single date, but rather a fascinating narrative of gradual acquisition, organic growth, and a commitment to vertical integration.
While the brand's foray into timekeeping stretches back much further than many realize, the narrative of Hermès as a serious watch manufacturer truly begins in earnest with a series of strategic acquisitions in the early 2010s. Prior to this period, Hermès offered timepieces, but often relied on external suppliers for crucial components. This changed dramatically with the acquisitions of Natéber SA and Joseph Erard SA.
The Building Blocks: Natéber SA and Joseph Erard SA
In 2012, Hermès acquired Natéber SA, a highly respected dial manufacturer located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the heart of Swiss watchmaking. This acquisition provided Hermès with immediate access to expertise in dial production, a critical component in creating a truly unique and high-quality timepiece. The intricate artistry and meticulous detail that characterize Natéber's dials immediately enhanced the quality and aesthetic appeal of Hermès watches. This move wasn't simply about acquiring a supplier; it was about securing a source of unparalleled craftsmanship and control over a key element of watch creation.
The following year, in 2013, Hermès further solidified its position in the watchmaking world with the acquisition of Joseph Erard SA, a case manufacturer also based in the Swiss Jura region, specifically Le Noirmont. This acquisition provided Hermès with the ability to control the design and production of watch cases, another crucial component in the creation of a complete timepiece. This move allowed Hermès to ensure the seamless integration of case design with the overall aesthetic and functionality of its watches. The combination of in-house case and dial production marked a significant shift in Hermès' approach to watchmaking.
The Consolidation: Les Ateliers d’Hermès Horloger
The strategic acquisitions of Natéber SA and Joseph Erard SA were not merely isolated events. They were carefully planned steps in a larger strategy to establish complete vertical integration within Hermès' watchmaking division. This culminated in 2017 with the creation of Les Ateliers d’Hermès Horloger in Le Noirmont. This unified entity brought together the expertise and resources of both Natéber SA and Joseph Erard SA under one roof. This consolidation allowed for greater collaboration, efficiency, and quality control. It represented a significant milestone in Hermès' journey to become a fully integrated and independent watch manufacturer.
The establishment of Les Ateliers d’Hermès Horloger marked a turning point. For the first time, Hermès had complete internal control over three crucial elements of watch production: movements, cases, and dials. This vertical integration allowed for greater creativity, innovation, and a level of quality control that is rarely seen in the industry. It also allowed Hermès to maintain a consistent brand identity across all aspects of its timepieces.
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